When it comes to the plaster in the house it’s a mess, near enough all the ceilings are failing (the old lathe and plaster ceilings) and many of the walls that are plaster, not plasterboard have problems due to years of neglect. Even some of the newer drywall walls aren’t up to standard and need work!
I’ve never plastered or used drywall/plasterboard before, closest to plastering is filling the odd hole with polyfilla, so I had no idea how hard/easy plastering could/would be. So we prepared a small wall, bought some one coat plaster from Wikes (10KG bag) and I tried to plaster a 4 foot square test area.
Plastering for the First Time
I’ve read about plastering, but reading and doing are two different things. Mixing the plaster was easy, getting it on the walls was easy, but getting it smooth was hard. Turns out I made the plaster to wet, so when going for a smooth surface it left ridges on the edge. I also fell into the trap of not leaving the plaster to set a little, just couldn’t leave it alone so over worked it!
Not one to give up after one try, bought some more plaster (multi-finish from Thistle) and tried again, this time adding less water. Again I did a small unimportant test area and again I made the plaster too wet (not as wet as before though). It was easier this time, but it was still too wet to get a good finish (quickly learning though 
.
I mix up another batch of plaster, this time Cameron (eldest son, whose 14) thinks he can do better (kids hey ). So we make the plaster not as wet and we split the bucket between us. The plaster goes on better this time, even Cameron did a better job than my first two tries (I was so proud or was it irritated ).
At that point I could see we had the basic skills to do this, since even with the wrong type of mix (too wet) the finish wasn’t that bad. I wasn’t happy with the finish, but I could see we could with practice get the house plastered to a high standard. What we’d learned though was the most important factor seems to be getting the mix right and not spending too much time on an area (you end up over working it).
That was a few days ago.
Just Call me the Plaster Expert, NOT!
Yesterday we went to the house with the aim to only plaster. We decided on one of the attic rooms, theory being they should have the best finish for us to work with since they are a relatively new addition to the house (I was wrong).
First we checked the stability of the current plaster, on one of the walls the plaster skim that was probably 20 years old was very easy to remove from the wall. Using a basic wallpaper type scraper we could scrape of large areas of plaster in seconds. The image to the right (it’s the left wall we scrapped) is how it looked before we started scraping.
In one area behind a wash basin we’d removed earlier there was unstable plaster, we took the loose bits back to the wall. So there were no unstable areas of plaster. This left us with a fair sized hole (see right).
What we found beneath was the original plaster with the remains of a blue paint (possibly emulsion) that had degraded over time (it was powdery). When we scraped the plaster skim off some of the blue paint stuck to the wall, the rest on the falling plaster (image right). So the failure was due to the paint layer. I’m guessing the professional plasterer who did that wall didn’t PVA it prior to adding the skim (there are other walls in the house like this, so we have a big task ahead of us!).
So we scraped off the loose layer, removed anything that wasn’t secure (to the brick work if needed), gave it a good brush to remove dust etc.. and PVA’d (4:1 ratio) to improve adhesion of the plaster.
The first bucket of plaster we mixed we again made it a little wet, but it was very close to what we have now found to be the right amount of water. It went on easily, but because it was still a little wet we had the ridge/lines problem, though as the plaster dried on the walls we could remove most of those.
I have to admit Cameron’s finish at this stage was better than mine (I hate him now )
Next bucket was spot on, went on easily, spread easily and it didn’t leave lots of ridges/lines. Our finish still wasn’t brilliant, but I’ve seen much worse at the house we live in now that was a new build 5 years ago with professional plasterers etc… I’m very much a perfectionist, so I’ll never be completely happy with anything like this where perfection through out a project is practically impossible, but can grit my teeth and move on (just).
We decided to make a bucket of plaster each for the next batch, Cameron’s was spot on so he got to work plastering. I added too much water to the bucket, so had a full bucket of plaster that was really difficult to mix. We had been using a mixer attached to a cordless screwdriver/drill, but the batteries ran out on the last batch, so it was down to manual mixing (that is hard work!!). I eventually got the plaster mixed and started to work.
Cameron was working on a sloping area and was having problems (not sure why), he didn’t get to use the whole batch, so wasted about half a bucket (I’ll take it out of his wages, well I would if I was paying him ). He did quite a good job with that section (see right). I managed to use around 90% of my plaster and learned another valuable lesson. The easiest way to plaster is slap it on quickly, give it a very quick smooth and move to the next bit. 10 to 15 minutes later go back to the first bit plastered and finish it off (it’s much easier then). This technique worked a treat as in no time at all I’d finished the rest of the wall and was smoothing out any problem areas.
This is the first wall we’ve completed and I’m 90% happy with it, will probably touch up any problems next time when we are doing another wall.
Now we need to learn to plaster quickly, so we don’t take 9 months to plaster the house
Update on this, we are finding the dried plaster isn’t quite flat (very close though), having to sand down areas, so still need more practice.
How to Drywall
After plastering several rooms I’d got to grips with plastering, I’m not a professional plasterer by any means, but the job is good enough, even for a DIY perfectionist like me!
Since a LOT of walls have very poor quality plaster and the entire basement had a plywood type covering (fire proof plywood, very thin) that was damp since the idiots who fitted it had actually laid the bottom of the wood directly on the concrete floor which meant over the last 20 years there’s been a lot of water damage, we’ve had a lot of bare walls to deal (so no plaster on them).
I figured it would be easier to use drywall (or plasterboard as we call it in the UK) so bought some sheets of drywall from B&Q.
I tried the dot and dab technique, but after wasting half a dozen boards (not fully wasted, scraped the plaster/glue off the back to recover them) I couldn’t get the damn boards to line up correctly (not something I expected to be hard!).
After some research I bought a How to Hang Drywall book online (PDF format) after reading a few positive reviews on a DIY forum.
It’s a good book for beginners to drywall/plasterboard like me, covers stuff like:
How To Hang Drywall
Repairing & Fixing Drywall
Cutting Drywall
How To Tape Drywall
How To Finish Drywall
After reading the book a few times I got the grips with using drywall and have drywalled and skimmed an entire room which looks better than my plastering attempts since for the end finish when working with new drywall is easier than working with plaster (you get a better skim finish, much flatter).
In my experience dealing with drywall/plasterboard is harder than plastering, but it is faster when dealing with bare brick walls and when done right the finish is better. If like me you have problems with drywall consider buying the book How to Hang Drywall.
73 responses to Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
hi i am having problems when flatning my second coat of multi finish 10-15mins after aplieing it.It tends to tear or peel of. so i have to wet it just to flatten it of why is this. can anyone advise me as i am at my wits end. is it also a good idea to put milk into the mix as a plastersizer
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stop bead is a beading you can plaster up to. I.e if the wall or celling is to big for you to tackel in one go you can devide it.
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Im a plasterer from Australia and i can tell you your doing it a bit wrong. Patches are art in their own way, u should always use a peice of plaster cut to the hole size and use a plastering mesh tape on the edges. Use some cornice cement for this because it is very very strong. Just apply evenly and thin, then use a top coat compound to run over it to get a nice finish. Use some sandpaper on it, and paint her up. If you continue doing it the way you are it will only end up cracking with the movement of the earth and it will not have a long life length the way i told you will guarantee 15 years at the very least. All of my work i guarantee 20
. GOOD LUCK
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when skimming a wall is the pva applied & allowed to dry or does the plaster go straight on.
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plaster should be apilled while pva is still tacky. this will stop the plaster from cracking as it drys
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Wow, this thread really took off! Thanks for the advice from everyone from my earlier post and glad to see lots of others asking questions now!
I’m getting round to doing my hall way and landing now (yeah, I last posted in July but ther’s been lots of other jobs to do!) and have taken into account everyones tips. I’m just about to go and hack off all the old render and brush down the walls… and then have one almighty clean up. As I understand it I need to PVA the walls once clered of dust (the bare brick) a few times and then I’m going to plasterboard straight onto the brick using the adhesive suggested by Mike and use some beading to protect the exposed corner. Then skim and hopefully… Bish bosh jobs a good ‘un :OP
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Good forum, Plastering is a daunting job, some builders wont even touch it, to plaster a whole room including a sand cement render onto the brickwork finished with a skim is labourious. I have been plastering and artexing, (and plastering over artex as tastes chage) for many years,
It is best to have a go on a sheet of plasterboard first, prop the board up against a wall, get a mixing attachement for your drill and a clean bucket, put the water in first followed by the powder, follow the bag instructions for quantity, you will get it right eventually, it is difficult to describe the consistancy in writing but the closest I guess could be to thick double cream which when you drip plaster on keeps the impression of the drips on the surface. Now the clock is ticking, skim goes off quickly, you can slow it down by adding lime but once you get the hang of it you shouldn’t need to. Lift about a trowells worth onto your hawk and scrape it off the hawk again with your trowell a few times to get it creamy, then scrape off a quantity with your trowell and holding the trowell at an angle slide it up the board so it leaves a nice layer of skim, do this again and again across the board until it is covered, to do a wall I would normally start at the top left corner and work across but on this board just get the skim on, it does not have to be perfect, now the board is covered, lightly go over it to get any obvious lines out and then leave it alone for @ 15 mins, (remembering that if the wall has taken you 15 minutes to get from one side to the other, the area you started on will be ready to go over again straight away!) wash your gear up making sure to get everything very clean, remnants of old skim in your bucket will turn new skim very quickly and reduce your working time. Now do it again in the same fashion, it will be quite easy, you will see that the finish is much smoother. leave it again for 10 mins or so and then you can start to polish, to be honest, polishing looks very good but it is not absolutley necessary and in fact can have adverse affects on paint adhesion, but it is worth having a go at it, spray some water over the skim and as it runs down the wall, trowell it back up on itself, you will see that the trowell edge collects some skim which then fills in any imperfections, go over the board and leave it for a bit again, you will need to use reasonably firm pressure at this stage, DO NOT HOLD THE TROWELL FLAT AGAINST THE BOARD, this will create suction and will pull the plaster away, you are basically only using the leading edge of the trowell. Go over it again if you want, the finish should already be good enough.
Obviously this is only a practice run on a small area, a whole wall is quite different, and there is a difference between skimming onto a board against skimming over a recently rendered wall, you need to plan ahead so you don’t run out of skim, aim to complete 1 wall at a time using exactly the same method.
Rendering a wall is heavier work but as long as the brick work is reasonably flat it is not too difficult, preperation is key to a good finish, if you have hacked old plaster off the walls, go over it with a stiff brush and get any loose dust etc off, then go over with a 50/50 PVA water solution and let it dry, then prior to applying render go over it again with a 20/80 PVA mix (80% water).Mix up the sharp sand / cement mix at 6-1, dont use washing up liquid as a plasticiser, use some proprietory mix or waterproofer instead. Supprisingly, unlike concreting a path or a floor, a render mix goes quite a long way. Some people use battens screwed to the wall at specific distances so they can run a straight-edge between them to get a good level, if you want to do this go ahead. if the wall is reasonably straight then I don’t. Remember prior to this stage that if you want to put any beading around window reveals or door casings etc this is the time to do it, get them dead straight and either nail them in place or stick them with a few dobs of skim. Get the render working on the hawk by moving it between the hawk and trowell and then scrape some off onto the trowell and smear it onto the wall. Dont go for a good finish at this stage, just get it on the wall, work quickly applying the render all over at an even thickness using an even pressure on the trowell. when the wall is covered, go over it again in the same way, this coat will immediatly be smoother, aim to reach the desired thickness. which really should not need to be more than 1cm max, then take your straight edge and using a zig zag motion, work over the render in all directions to get a level surface, DONT try to smooth it off, you need a key for the skim. Ensure that the finish is level, free from spikes and dips and leave it alone, 24 hours is enough until skimming as it will still be “green”.
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ive been learning to plaster with the help of dvds and have produced quite good results but room for improvement, that will come with regular practice. i use my old terraced house for my practice but i have a large bedroom ceiling and huge stairwell to tackle. can any one tell me how to create a perfect join when skimming large areas? as the dvds dont seem to touch on this.
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Great Forum.
Interested in the answer for John above as I often have large walls to plaster and I’m always worried about joining one days work to the next. But, I have two other questions which I hope someone can help me with:
1 – I seem able to remove lines in my plaster, and produce level flatened walls without bumps or ridges, but I still struggle with flatening out those 1/2 mm depressions and holes in the finishing skim that, you know, often look like Italy or the coastline of Thailand???… This is a REAL pain because, I can’t always see the faults until the next day and after and the wall/ceiling is dry…
2 – I’m English but live and work in France. Usedalwys Thistles in the UK, but can’t get it here. Does anyone know of a similiar European ‘Enduit’ that even if it goes on white that has the same properties?
Many thanks.
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Sorry, should make sense of that last sentence (my english is as bad as my plastering) In the UK I always used Thistles, but in Continental Europe they use a white plaster which they call ‘enduit,’ There is something different about it which makes it less versatile to use. In France they plaster normally to a max of 2 or 3mm, rarely use hawks and find it often necessary to rub down their work to achive a fine finish. So, if someone knows a better product..?
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come on guys! anyone there? any advice on creating a perfect join when skimming a large area?
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I’VE BEEN PLASTERING FOR 14 YEARS.ANSWER FOR JOHN:- TRY NOT TO JOIN YOUR WORK AS YOU WILL ALWAYS SEE A LINE. I DONT CARE HOW GOOD A PLASTERER ANYONE IS, JOINING THE 2 PIECES OF WORK A LINE WILL ALWAYS BE SEEN. I HAVE JUST PLASTERED A 56 SQUARED METRE CEILING,BUT HAVING BEEN A CONFIDENT PLASTERER FOR THE LAST 12 YEARS I STILL COULDN’T DO IT ON MY OWN SO GOT MY DAD WHO IS ALSO A SPREAD TO HELP WE JUST DONE IT TO A GOOD FINISH TOOK 6 HOURS AND 7 BAGS OF MULTI. THE BIGGEST CEILING I WOULD DO ON MY OWN IS ABOUT 20 SQ METRES AND THATS A BACK BREAKER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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KNACKERED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
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ok cheers asa. thats some ceiling!! as you progress wth the first coat, would your pop then follow behind you flattening off then you go back to the beginning with the 2nd coat etc? jus finishhed reskimming one wall with 2 windows in my bedroom with good results, working my way round the room, reeeally enjoying it … im a joiner by trade so its another string to my bow! KERCHING!!!
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hi every one.i have recently bought a small house and found dat thers damp in the living room..now obviously i cant do d damp so it will be done by a professional,i have done a 5 day course on plastering not the best.but it will do for me.jus wondering if any1 could pls help me.can i plastern the wall myself after the damp proof course is done?is it the same way to render as in normal and then use multi thistle plaster??or is it something in a special way needed to be done??many tx
alam
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To Alam
after the damp problem has been sorted out you can render and skim the wall, make sure you use a waterproofer in the render and leave a gap about 2cm from the floor to let the bricks breath, you won’t see it if there is skirting board covering it.
scratch the render and the next day skim.
To John
If you stop part way through a job and come back to it you will see the join, even if you feather it really well, you have to plan to do the complete surface as one job, if you are patching then the best you can do is feather the skim but as I said if you are painting over it you possibly will see the join unfortunatley.
To Asa
that is a big ceiling (56m2), when I do commercial buildings with long corridoors and big office ceilings I always have at least one other man with me, however, most office ceilings are suspended now so I don’t do many. I have recently done some restoration work in a listed building which meant working with lime and horsehair over lath, it was actually OK to work with once we got the mix right.
A word of warning, plastering is VERY hard work, especially cielings. And there is nothing more anoying than spending a day grafting to find the finish is not as good as you would have hoped, knowing what I know, I would probably pay a plasterer to come in and do the job right first time (well I would say that wouldn’t I ?)
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ok heres one, mentioned earlier skimming over old plaster in my bedroom, started on the wall with two windows, beading round the reveals of the window. done nice job of the wall (with room for improvement). didnt have time to do the reveals so i tackled that the next day. not happy with the result round the reveals so im going to hack out the plaster and do it again. i think skimming round reveals requires a different approach? technique? i applied the plaster from the window frame and worked across to the bead through out and not really knowing if it was square thus relying on my joiners eye.
by the time i got to the last stage i had created a slight bump about an inch in from the bead all way round (not happy).
i noticed tho that working to beading you are forced to apply the skim much thicker to meet the depth of the bead. any adice please for flat even reveals would be greatly appreciated to restore my battered confidence… off for a sulk.
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John, I assume that you are using drywall beading for the reveals if you are skimming over existing plaster? If you are using the mesh type you are in trouble as the mesh is designed to be sunk into the render.
With the drywall bead mix up a little skim and stick the bead to the reveal using your level to get it straight and plum, feather off the skim and go and wash up.
Then mix up some more about 30 mins later (or next day even) and apply 2 coats all over the wall, you will find that the second coat comes flush with the bead. Before you skim make sure you unibond the walls to prevent suction,I always give the walls a coat of PVA at a 5-1 ratio the day before and then another coat 1/2 hour before I start skimming.
It all seems very easy writing this but as you have found out, plastering, (despite many peoples perception) is a real skill that only comes with a lot of practice. I used to do a lot of artexing which looked good, but then DIY’ers had a go because it looked easy, loads of houses now with shocking artex on the ceiling and walls have virtually finished off the artexing buisness as people generalise and say it looks naff. I used to do 3 – 4 jobs a week, now I might do 3 or 4 a year, but I smooth off and skim loads of ceilings with bodged artex on them.
It’s good to have a go at anything but remember that it will be “unlikely” that you will get a professional finish
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nice 1 phil. hacked off the plaster to do it again. cheers
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hi there,fellow plasterers,just like to add to what mike said about dabbing plasterboard to to brick walls,he is bang on and it is an excellent way to get an exceptionally flat wall ready for your finish to go onto,just mix up a large tub of drywall adhesive, dab this stuff on the back of youre plasterboard all over in evenly placed blobs, especially near edges,then bang it on the wall,to get a nice even spread i use a large piece of 3×2 timber to bang it out level useing large level to check level across and top to bottom,once youve put one piece up and got it spot on,the rest fly up,youll be amazed at the finished result,nice one mike , youre spot on,cheers,mister ja,bolton ,lancs
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Hi, am having to plaster a wall which has the old lathe ie. hundreds of small wooden slats. Can I go directly on to this with browning/bonding? and does this then have to be bone dry before I can start skimming over or can I start skimming the next day?
cheers James
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hi there, if its still any use to you, rip off the old wooden latts whenever possible and replace with plasterboard,tape up then skim,much better job,nice and flat, make sure to de-nail everywhere first though, cheers.
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Hello,
Can anyone recommend a decent plaster training centre in Wakefield, England. I want to do a weekend or a five day coarse.
Oh and if anyone knows, is it possible to get an NVQ 2 in plastering quickly, im a beginner but need to learn a trade fast. Many thanks
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seems funny to me why anyone would want to struggle with a diy project . you wouldnt want to build a car if you needed one you would buy it . please leave trade jobs to trades men. this is part of the reason this countrys building trade is in decline because everyone and his dog thinks they can when they cant . and this site just goes to prove my point
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I am a diyer as jg puts it. I have been doing diy for 25 years now. My work is said to be great. In fact good enough for all people I have worked for.
This has included plastering and skimming. With practice it is possible to become better than many so called tradesmen that charge a fortune. We are not all made of money and you don’t always get a high class job when paid for. If you do it yourself and it works out fine then brill if not you only have yourself to blame. Lets face it you could have many goes at it to get perfection for the price of a Good tradesman. So I say goodluck to the DIY crowd and may the plaster be with you.
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does any one no where there is job vacancies for tackers.
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Great post and good on you for trying……Most people wouldn’t lol!!!! I finished my NVQ or actually its now called a diploma! ive been training for three years now and have quite an extensive knowlege of all things Plaster related……..Ive even learnt the Historic way, that involves adding horse hair to a mix!!!…………I think the Golden Rules of plastering are as follows -
1) RELAX – working enviroment always should have a radio and kettle! helps you to stop rushing, as it feels your there for the duration and your not beein rushed!
2)RHYTHM – Set a comfortable pace and stick to it. You end up like a mega plastering robot ( lol ) you will not get distracted either!
3)NEVER PANICK – people tend to rush, worry and panic about plastering. remember, Whats the worse that can happen? take it off and start again – no problem.
hope this may help some random person somewhere in the big beautifull world!
Jack, 24 from Nottingham, UK
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Oh yeah………………Those 5 day coarses are utter rubbish and the biggest con going, It took me and my boys (lads on the coarse) just under a year to be able to skim perfectly : )
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I have to disagree with King’s comments about 5 day courses, i went to a course in Huddersfield called “learn to plaster” and in a 4 day period i learned to board up my own bay and then spent the rest of the time practicing skimming. We covered lots of the problems that are being discussed and by the end i must admit (modesty aside) that i was quite good. To be fair they never pretended that i would finish the course as a qualified plasterer but i certainly now feel confident to tackle a medium sized room and get a good finish
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to make plaster go off slowe over old plaster
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Hi guys facinating thread
Wonder if anyone could drop me some advise
I have a 1930’s house, the existing plaster in places has blown and comes of in sheets as I found when trying to replace skirting after laying a lovely solid wood floor!!!!!
There is a plasterboard covering what was the former dining room doorway and the surronding area has brickwork with more of the old sand cemet crap covering it, which is resembling Weetabix all sand and no substance.
Reading much of the excellent advice Im thinking that it will need a sand cement mix for the exposed brick work , having been PVA’d and then that will be up to the level of the board?
can this kind of 1930’s reneder/ plaster be “Patch repaired” having been prepped properly? or is it a case of the whole wall needing to come off and be plastered? Sob sob!!
Will I need then , 2 coats of skim ? on both surfaces?
Im not confident to do this but just want to get a handle on it when I get a plasterer in?
Also as there is a strong likelyhood that the rest of the house has a similar “cereal” finish
And finally
How does a Plasterer calculate a job? Is it Time / Size of job or a combo of both and whats the going rate please ?
Any advice gratefully recieved
Cheers
Fil
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I’m sorry, but plastering is neither difficult nor is it an “art form”. It’s simple chemicle reactions and practise. With a mentor, you should be able to learn it in a week, tops. People like to think it is some mysterious art form and try to scaremonger others into not having a go. I was a plasterer for 9 years, and I’ve had enough. It’s boring, monotonous and there is just no ambition in it. I’m now at uni, haha skint, but at least im doing something I enjoy, forensic science. good luck all.
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There are many comments about leaving lines in the plaster. One solution that I have used successfully is to use a longer trowel (about 18 inches or 450mm) that has the long edges slightly curved at the ends (much like the old ‘metal Jack plane’ blade shape).
Only put enough plasster on the trowel to spread about 2/3rds or 3/4ths of the length. This has the effect of ‘feathering’ the edge of the plaster as it is applied.
It also means that there are less noticable hollows in the finished surface and any ‘ridges’ can be flattened because the corners of the trowel won’t dig in to the surrounding surface.
Mind you, I’m an Aussie D-I-Y freak and am just about to START rendering all the internal walls of an 2000 sq. ft. full brick construction (four bedromm, two bathroom) house. I’ve actually done the base coat for a room that is 12 ft x 21 ft x 8 ft walls, so I have many square yards (metres) ahead of me.
To get the finish coat on the walls straigh, I am using two lengths of 1″ (25mm) RHS to which I have welded a piece on 3mm angle iron at each end so that I can position the angles into the corners of the room (using suitable heavy conrete blocks to hold them in place) and a string line lightly stretched between them.
Anyone want to migrate to ’sunny down-under’? I’m 73 so I hope to finish the job before I fall off my perch.
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