74 responses to Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall

  • hi every one.i have recently bought a small house and found dat thers damp in the living room..now obviously i cant do d damp so it will be done by a professional,i have done a 5 day course on plastering not the best.but it will do for me.jus wondering if any1 could pls help me.can i plastern the wall myself after the damp proof course is done?is it the same way to render as in normal and then use multi thistle plaster??or is it something in a special way needed to be done??many tx
    alam

    Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall

  • To Alam
    after the damp problem has been sorted out you can render and skim the wall, make sure you use a waterproofer in the render and leave a gap about 2cm from the floor to let the bricks breath, you won’t see it if there is skirting board covering it.
    scratch the render and the next day skim.
    To John
    If you stop part way through a job and come back to it you will see the join, even if you feather it really well, you have to plan to do the complete surface as one job, if you are patching then the best you can do is feather the skim but as I said if you are painting over it you possibly will see the join unfortunatley.
    To Asa
    that is a big ceiling (56m2), when I do commercial buildings with long corridoors and big office ceilings I always have at least one other man with me, however, most office ceilings are suspended now so I don’t do many. I have recently done some restoration work in a listed building which meant working with lime and horsehair over lath, it was actually OK to work with once we got the mix right.

    A word of warning, plastering is VERY hard work, especially cielings. And there is nothing more anoying than spending a day grafting to find the finish is not as good as you would have hoped, knowing what I know, I would probably pay a plasterer to come in and do the job right first time (well I would say that wouldn’t I ?)

    Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall

  • ok heres one, mentioned earlier skimming over old plaster in my bedroom, started on the wall with two windows, beading round the reveals of the window. done nice job of the wall (with room for improvement). didnt have time to do the reveals so i tackled that the next day. not happy with the result round the reveals so im going to hack out the plaster and do it again. i think skimming round reveals requires a different approach? technique? i applied the plaster from the window frame and worked across to the bead through out and not really knowing if it was square thus relying on my joiners eye.
    by the time i got to the last stage i had created a slight bump about an inch in from the bead all way round (not happy).
    i noticed tho that working to beading you are forced to apply the skim much thicker to meet the depth of the bead. any adice please for flat even reveals would be greatly appreciated to restore my battered confidence… off for a sulk.

    Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall

  • John, I assume that you are using drywall beading for the reveals if you are skimming over existing plaster? If you are using the mesh type you are in trouble as the mesh is designed to be sunk into the render.
    With the drywall bead mix up a little skim and stick the bead to the reveal using your level to get it straight and plum, feather off the skim and go and wash up.
    Then mix up some more about 30 mins later (or next day even) and apply 2 coats all over the wall, you will find that the second coat comes flush with the bead. Before you skim make sure you unibond the walls to prevent suction,I always give the walls a coat of PVA at a 5-1 ratio the day before and then another coat 1/2 hour before I start skimming.
    It all seems very easy writing this but as you have found out, plastering, (despite many peoples perception) is a real skill that only comes with a lot of practice. I used to do a lot of artexing which looked good, but then DIY’ers had a go because it looked easy, loads of houses now with shocking artex on the ceiling and walls have virtually finished off the artexing buisness as people generalise and say it looks naff. I used to do 3 – 4 jobs a week, now I might do 3 or 4 a year, but I smooth off and skim loads of ceilings with bodged artex on them.
    It’s good to have a go at anything but remember that it will be “unlikely” that you will get a professional finish

    Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall

  • nice 1 phil. hacked off the plaster to do it again. cheers

  • hi there,fellow plasterers,just like to add to what mike said about dabbing plasterboard to to brick walls,he is bang on and it is an excellent way to get an exceptionally flat wall ready for your finish to go onto,just mix up a large tub of drywall adhesive, dab this stuff on the back of youre plasterboard all over in evenly placed blobs, especially near edges,then bang it on the wall,to get a nice even spread i use a large piece of 3×2 timber to bang it out level useing large level to check level across and top to bottom,once youve put one piece up and got it spot on,the rest fly up,youll be amazed at the finished result,nice one mike , youre spot on,cheers,mister ja,bolton ,lancs

    Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall

  • Hi, am having to plaster a wall which has the old lathe ie. hundreds of small wooden slats. Can I go directly on to this with browning/bonding? and does this then have to be bone dry before I can start skimming over or can I start skimming the next day?
    cheers James

    • To 2zanzibar: I had these walls in my house and i too am a amateur at plastering.

      What you need to do is remove all the woven wood pieces (lattes i think they are called?) and just nail some plasterboard onto the frame that is left. Then use plasterboard tape (checkered tape, dont know what they call it) over the gaps where the plasterboard pieces join together and then skim :)

  • hi there, if its still any use to you, rip off the old wooden latts whenever possible and replace with plasterboard,tape up then skim,much better job,nice and flat, make sure to de-nail everywhere first though, cheers.

  • Hello,

    Can anyone recommend a decent plaster training centre in Wakefield, England. I want to do a weekend or a five day coarse.

    Oh and if anyone knows, is it possible to get an NVQ 2 in plastering quickly, im a beginner but need to learn a trade fast. Many thanks :-)

  • seems funny to me why anyone would want to struggle with a diy project . you wouldnt want to build a car if you needed one you would buy it . please leave trade jobs to trades men. this is part of the reason this countrys building trade is in decline because everyone and his dog thinks they can when they cant . and this site just goes to prove my point

  • does any one no where there is job vacancies for tackers.

  • Great post and good on you for trying……Most people wouldn’t lol!!!! I finished my NVQ or actually its now called a diploma! ive been training for three years now and have quite an extensive knowlege of all things Plaster related……..Ive even learnt the Historic way, that involves adding horse hair to a mix!!!…………I think the Golden Rules of plastering are as follows -

    1) RELAX – working enviroment always should have a radio and kettle! helps you to stop rushing, as it feels your there for the duration and your not beein rushed!

    2)RHYTHM – Set a comfortable pace and stick to it. You end up like a mega plastering robot ( lol ) you will not get distracted either!

    3)NEVER PANICK – people tend to rush, worry and panic about plastering. remember, Whats the worse that can happen? take it off and start again – no problem.

    hope this may help some random person somewhere in the big beautifull world!

    Jack, 24 from Nottingham, UK

    Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall

  • Oh yeah………………Those 5 day coarses are utter rubbish and the biggest con going, It took me and my boys (lads on the coarse) just under a year to be able to skim perfectly : )

  • to make plaster go off slowe over old plaster

  • Hi guys facinating thread
    Wonder if anyone could drop me some advise
    I have a 1930′s house, the existing plaster in places has blown and comes of in sheets as I found when trying to replace skirting after laying a lovely solid wood floor!!!!!
    There is a plasterboard covering what was the former dining room doorway and the surronding area has brickwork with more of the old sand cemet crap covering it, which is resembling Weetabix all sand and no substance.

    Reading much of the excellent advice Im thinking that it will need a sand cement mix for the exposed brick work , having been PVA’d and then that will be up to the level of the board?
    Will I need then , 2 coats of skim ? on both surfaces?
    Im not confident to do this but just want to get a handle on it when I get a plasterer in?
    Also as there is a strong likelyhood that the rest of the house has a similar “cereal” finish :) can this kind of 1930′s reneder/ plaster be “Patch repaired” having been prepped properly? or is it a case of the whole wall needing to come off and be plastered? Sob sob!!
    And finally
    How does a Plasterer calculate a job? Is it Time / Size of job or a combo of both and whats the going rate please ?
    Any advice gratefully recieved
    Cheers
    Fil

    Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall

  • I’m sorry, but plastering is neither difficult nor is it an “art form”. It’s simple chemicle reactions and practise. With a mentor, you should be able to learn it in a week, tops. People like to think it is some mysterious art form and try to scaremonger others into not having a go. I was a plasterer for 9 years, and I’ve had enough. It’s boring, monotonous and there is just no ambition in it. I’m now at uni, haha skint, but at least im doing something I enjoy, forensic science. good luck all.

    Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall

  • There are many comments about leaving lines in the plaster. One solution that I have used successfully is to use a longer trowel (about 18 inches or 450mm) that has the long edges slightly curved at the ends (much like the old ‘metal Jack plane’ blade shape).

    Only put enough plasster on the trowel to spread about 2/3rds or 3/4ths of the length. This has the effect of ‘feathering’ the edge of the plaster as it is applied.

    It also means that there are less noticable hollows in the finished surface and any ‘ridges’ can be flattened because the corners of the trowel won’t dig in to the surrounding surface.

    Mind you, I’m an Aussie D-I-Y freak and am just about to START rendering all the internal walls of an 2000 sq. ft. full brick construction (four bedromm, two bathroom) house. I’ve actually done the base coat for a room that is 12 ft x 21 ft x 8 ft walls, so I have many square yards (metres) ahead of me.

    To get the finish coat on the walls straigh, I am using two lengths of 1″ (25mm) RHS to which I have welded a piece on 3mm angle iron at each end so that I can position the angles into the corners of the room (using suitable heavy conrete blocks to hold them in place) and a string line lightly stretched between them.

    Anyone want to migrate to ‘sunny down-under’? I’m 73 so I hope to finish the job before I fall off my perch.

    Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall

  • when skimming a big room by your self and its to big is it a good idea to do half of it then put zigzags on it to hide the join or less hide the join if you come back the next day to skim the rest of it plz leave advice thanks owen

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