When it comes to the plaster in the house it’s a mess, near enough all the ceilings are failing (the old lathe and plaster ceilings) and many of the walls that are plaster, not plasterboard have problems due to years of neglect. Even some of the newer drywall walls aren’t up to standard and need work!
I’ve never plastered or used drywall/plasterboard before, closest to plastering is filling the odd hole with polyfilla, so I had no idea how hard/easy plastering could/would be. So we prepared a small wall, bought some one coat plaster from Wikes (10KG bag) and I tried to plaster a 4 foot square test area.
Plastering for the First Time
I’ve read about plastering, but reading and doing are two different things. Mixing the plaster was easy, getting it on the walls was easy, but getting it smooth was hard. Turns out I made the plaster to wet, so when going for a smooth surface it left ridges on the edge. I also fell into the trap of not leaving the plaster to set a little, just couldn’t leave it alone so over worked it!
Not one to give up after one try, bought some more plaster (multi-finish from Thistle) and tried again, this time adding less water. Again I did a small unimportant test area and again I made the plaster too wet (not as wet as before though). It was easier this time, but it was still too wet to get a good finish (quickly learning though
.
I mix up another batch of plaster, this time Cameron (eldest son, whose 14) thinks he can do better (kids hey
). So we make the plaster not as wet and we split the bucket between us. The plaster goes on better this time, even Cameron did a better job than my first two tries (I was so proud or was it irritated
).
At that point I could see we had the basic skills to do this, since even with the wrong type of mix (too wet) the finish wasn’t that bad. I wasn’t happy with the finish, but I could see we could with practice get the house plastered to a high standard. What we’d learned though was the most important factor seems to be getting the mix right and not spending too much time on an area (you end up over working it).
That was a few days ago.
Just Call me the Plaster Expert, NOT!
Yesterday we went to the house with the aim to only plaster. We decided on one of the attic rooms, theory being they should have the best finish for us to work with since they are a relatively new addition to the house (I was wrong).
First we checked the stability of the current plaster, on one of the walls the plaster skim that was probably 20 years old was very easy to remove from the wall. Using a basic wallpaper type scraper we could scrape of large areas of plaster in seconds. The image to the right (it’s the left wall we scrapped) is how it looked before we started scraping.
In one area behind a wash basin we’d removed earlier there was unstable plaster, we took the loose bits back to the wall. So there were no unstable areas of plaster. This left us with a fair sized hole (see right).
What we found beneath was the original plaster with the remains of a blue paint (possibly emulsion) that had degraded over time (it was powdery). When we scraped the plaster skim off some of the blue paint stuck to the wall, the rest on the falling plaster (image right). So the failure was due to the paint layer. I’m guessing the professional plasterer who did that wall didn’t PVA it prior to adding the skim (there are other walls in the house like this, so we have a big task ahead of us!).
So we scraped off the loose layer, removed anything that wasn’t secure (to the brick work if needed), gave it a good brush to remove dust etc.. and PVA’d (4:1 ratio) to improve adhesion of the plaster.
The first bucket of plaster we mixed we again made it a little wet, but it was very close to what we have now found to be the right amount of water. It went on easily, but because it was still a little wet we had the ridge/lines problem, though as the plaster dried on the walls we could remove most of those.
I have to admit Cameron’s finish at this stage was better than mine (I hate him now
)
Next bucket was spot on, went on easily, spread easily and it didn’t leave lots of ridges/lines. Our finish still wasn’t brilliant, but I’ve seen much worse at the house we live in now that was a new build 5 years ago with professional plasterers etc… I’m very much a perfectionist, so I’ll never be completely happy with anything like this where perfection through out a project is practically impossible, but can grit my teeth and move on (just).
We decided to make a bucket of plaster each for the next batch, Cameron’s was spot on so he got to work plastering. I added too much water to the bucket, so had a full bucket of plaster that was really difficult to mix. We had been using a mixer attached to a cordless screwdriver/drill, but the batteries ran out on the last batch, so it was down to manual mixing (that is hard work!!). I eventually got the plaster mixed and started to work.
Cameron was working on a sloping area and was having problems (not sure why), he didn’t get to use the whole batch, so wasted about half a bucket (I’ll take it out of his wages, well I would if I was paying him
). He did quite a good job with that section (see right). I managed to use around 90% of my plaster and learned another valuable lesson. The easiest way to plaster is slap it on quickly, give it a very quick smooth and move to the next bit. 10 to 15 minutes later go back to the first bit plastered and finish it off (it’s much easier then). This technique worked a treat as in no time at all I’d finished the rest of the wall and was smoothing out any problem areas.
This is the first wall we’ve completed and I’m 90% happy with it, will probably touch up any problems next time when we are doing another wall.
Now we need to learn to plaster quickly, so we don’t take 9 months to plaster the house
Update on this, we are finding the dried plaster isn’t quite flat (very close though), having to sand down areas, so still need more practice.
How to Drywall
After plastering several rooms I’d got to grips with plastering, I’m not a professional plasterer by any means, but the job is good enough, even for a DIY perfectionist like me!
Since a LOT of walls have very poor quality plaster and the entire basement had a plywood type covering (fire proof plywood, very thin) that was damp since the idiots who fitted it had actually laid the bottom of the wood directly on the concrete floor which meant over the last 20 years there’s been a lot of water damage, we’ve had a lot of bare walls to deal (so no plaster on them).
I figured it would be easier to use drywall (or plasterboard as we call it in the UK) so bought some sheets of drywall from B&Q.
I tried the dot and dab technique, but after wasting half a dozen boards (not fully wasted, scraped the plaster/glue off the back to recover them) I couldn’t get the damn boards to line up correctly (not something I expected to be hard!).
After some research I bought a How to Hang Drywall book online (PDF format) after reading a few positive reviews on a DIY forum.
It’s a good book for beginners to drywall/plasterboard like me, covers stuff like:
How To Hang Drywall
Repairing & Fixing Drywall
Cutting Drywall
How To Tape Drywall
How To Finish Drywall
After reading the book a few times I got the grips with using drywall and have drywalled and skimmed an entire room which looks better than my plastering attempts since for the end finish when working with new drywall is easier than working with plaster (you get a better skim finish, much flatter).
In my experience dealing with drywall/plasterboard is harder than plastering, but it is faster when dealing with bare brick walls and when done right the finish is better. If like me you have problems with drywall consider buying the book How to Hang Drywall.

74 responses to Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
i must say you quite brave taking a job thats considered skilled ive been platering for a few years now ,you didnt mention applying two coats of plaster wich is the norm ,i put the first coat on leave until it firms slightly and before the second coat is ready i smooth it over with the trowel no rush nice n easy i find by doing this the second coat goes on a lot smoother and you can see where your missing with the second coat .i leave the second coat firm up a lil then smooth it over filling in any holes and hollows ,i then leave it for a lil longer about 10-12 muinets before the final trowel applying a small ammount of water to the trowel
ive found it depends on the background ,high suction backgrounds need more care and set a lot quicker ,low suction sometimes takes for ever to get to the final trowel
theres a real skill to getting a smooth flat wall and im learning all the time ,good luck to you
jay
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Thanks for the advice Jay. Where plaster has fell off the wall (leaving bare wall) we are using browning followed by multi-finish, so yes where needed two layers. If it’s just a reskim that’s needed then just the multi-finish.
I’m finding the high suction backgrounds a problem, some set so quickly you barely have time to scratch your nose before it’s almost off!!
Also having problems with old skim where whoever reskimed didn’t prepare the walls correctly (no PVA). We have whole rooms where someone has resmimmed over paint and now the paint has come loose from the original plaster, this means the newish skim layer comes away really easy with a nice layer of paint underneath it
We are having to remove all of this before reskimming with correct preparation.
David
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Another solution. I am assuming that you have a brick, cinderblock or some other type of masonary wall. Just extend the walls via 3/8 inch drywall sheets. No one will notice. Remove all molding from walls or room. Sand and plaster the wall just enough to get out the main irregularities. Don’t worry about trying to get it exact. Just as long it basically smooth. Correct of all flaking areas Then prime it with a good paint that will take an adhesive. Then get some sheets of 3/8 inch drywall and paste it on top with a good adhesive. Screw in a couple of flathead masonary screws for extra holding. Problem solved and your wall is much smoother than you could ever get it via plastering. This solution is especially useful if you want to get rid of textured or stuccoed walls.
Or a better solution depending on room
Get some good qaulity 1×3’s or 2×4′ s and build a frame separately. Then lay frame up against wall. Shim the irregular areas and attach to wall via masonary screws.. Throw up your 1/2 inch sheet rock. Done deal!. This solution will also permit you to run wiring behind walls.
The Stanley Complete Drywall book is also useful to have.
Only a few bucks via Amazon.
Nate
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
hi good luck to you, i’ve just plastered my new extension, and are still looking for tips, i used the thistle multi finish and found it better a little wetter, to creamy and i found it sticky and went of to quickly for smoothing so out with the sander, largest wall was 12 by 10,
steve
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Hi to all,
I have been a traditional plasterer for well over 20 years now and must say that I have to take my hat off to you for starting such a project!
I run a forum where you are welcome to pop-in and ask any questions you might like answers to.
I also have done some DVD’s regarding how to plaster various things, just in case you might be interested..
Bigbud
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
wouldnt listen to bigbud from uk spreads yes he maybe plastering 20 years but hes full of sheet, ask him about distemper and hell bullshit, hes a racist and bigot and bans anyone fromhis forum that disagrees with him…..that not really the way froward in my book…there are many ggod forums out there …but uk spreads is def. not one of them…..
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
say there buddy…ive just started this plastering lark myself….i ve worked for a damp proofer for 2 years so i picked up the basic skills whilst with him.ive just completed my first 2 walls and i must say ,i think my skimming is better than my old gaffas.
two coats of multi finish is the trick as mentioned before…the browing is just to fill holles or make walls even so that your not putting on so thick a layer in places.
so first coat …let it go off for about 15 mins then throw on your second.you will notice with the second coat that it gos on more smothly as its gripping the layer below and is starting to push in.the ridge marks you may be talking about might be from bouncing your trowel along when polishing up….goto keep your trowel pretty flat or it will bounce and leave lines in the final finish.
well i hope your project is/has gone well…..sure dose save a few bob huh.
all the best
chris
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Hi,
I did some plastering not long back and when it had dried, i rang my fingers over the wall i could feel ripples, so i troweled on easy fill to the whole wall. I let the easyfill dry for a couple of days. I then went over it a little with sand paper and I could tell it hadn’t dried so i left it longer.
Will the wall be smooth if i wait till its fully dry and use an electric sander to sand the whole lot down?????
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Hey Craig,
Not tried sanding a large area with an electric sander, but have tried it on a small area and it came out fine. Does create a LOT of dust so take that into account. Also found the sand paper got clogged quite quickly with plaster dust, so guess for a large area it’s going to mean a lot of sand paper.
When I was sanding that way I thought a belt sander or even a orbital sander might be better suited to the job (used the move up/down type sander) as I think it will get less clogged and smooth out faster (not tried it though).
Did a search online and there are electric dry wall sanders ($500 in the US apparently) it looked like an orbital sander on a pole
David
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Has a female plasterer of two years my best advice is to do a quick college course which is fun and you will save yourself a lot of heartache. Best of luck.
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can any one tell me what the typewriter method of plastering is?
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Championed by Gold Trowel, although I’m sure they wouldn’t of invented it, the typewriter method is when for example you start at the top left of a wall, cover the the top half/third towards the right side of the wall, then start back at the left, laying on the bottom/middle etc. It is just a more structured technique for laying the plaster on. Of course it goes the same for ceilings, start at one corner, complete a ‘line’ then start back at the same side you began.
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
hi what is the minimum wage doing a plastering apprentiship????????
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been plastering for about a year and half .
ggot told it takes 10 years to become a great plasterer.
my meathod is
start at top of the wall going across the wall till you have come down to were you can reach with the upwards strokes.
after 1st coat go over it keeping the trowel as flat as possible this will prevent bumps .let this firm up then stick second coat on.let this start setting then flat trowel filling any misses .if it still has marks let it set a bit more then trowel it up again .then once its set a bit more polish it up.if you keep on top of it without messing with it to much you wont need alot of water to polish it up
the bumpy stripes you get can be
not holding trowel flat enough
going over same place to often causing plaster to run
or putting plaster on when its to thick .
and a good broken in trowel makes a hell of a lot of differance
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Please could someone give me information on any Colleges for Plastering courses
Kind Regards
Peter Robson
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Hi,
There are plenty of short courses for plastering, some you can do in five days and the aim to give you the confidence and skills necessary for these types of jobs. See for instance www.buildingskillsacademy.co.uk – which is in an independent course provider near where I live.
Tanya
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Hello, very interesting thread. Can anybody (the pro plasterers?) tell me if the diluted pva layer is porus? Will it let a wall breath or is it an impermeable barrier? Many thanks, Roger.
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i have plastered a few walls in the past, with great results however today i was plastering a large wall and when i was smoothing the second coat out ,wet trowel, i noticed a load of cracks appearing in one part of the wall only , am i right in thinking my water was to dirty and setting to quick or had i missed that area with pva and it was sucking the moisture out off the plaster faster than the surrounding areas
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
REPLY TO TED. The reason why a part of the wall started to crack was that you have missed p.v.a on that part of the wall.Silly billy.
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Hi can anyone tell me why my newly plastered walls crack when drying. I’m, using hardwall for inside.
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hi i’m new to plastering, and am looking to completely plaster a kitchen approximately 8 x 4m. i will be skimming onto new plasterboard, but am concerned that with such a large ceiling area, how large an area i plaster before stoping and then troweling up. and would i complete the whole ceiling before applying the second coat or would i start to apply the second coat early if the first part of my work is starting to go off.
thanks andy
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Hi great thread and very inforamtive— I want to plaster my kitchen ceiling- it is flakey and needs some tlc- any tips for ceilings-think I could do a wall after reading this but not alot of mention about ceilings-is it the same process– oh and how much prep to ceiling before plastering???
Cheers
Jinny
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
I am A lecturer at Newcastle college for plastering A little advice if you are planning to plaster for the first time.Always wear PPE Goggles a must if you are doing ceilings, A right handed person should start in a left hand corner and work along in rows and a left handed person , start in the right and work left, If you are plastering over artex ceilings do a test with pva scrape a small area and apply 50/50 PVA leave for a while to see if there is any reaction (bubbling etc) if this happens you may get a reaction when you apply plaster. 1 bucket of water will mix approx 1 bag of plaster or just under 25kg.Always apply 2 coats of plaster the first coat apply roughly smooth, don’t spend too much time trying to trowel flat, apply the second coat , this is usually a thinner coat and start to fill in hollows starting from the beginning Use a sash brush dipped in water to seal the edges and give a nice finish for the edges. I use a spray to wet the ceiling down a little, if its too dry, some people prefer a large brush. At this stage approx 20 minutes after starting or when the plasters nearly off, start trowling up have a slight angle on your trowel but never flat and build up a glut this is pure plaster that comes to the surface that builds up when troweling, use the glut to fill in the small imperfections. Don’t over polish the surface as emulsion paints will start to peel. Always keep your trowel clean throughout plastering .A clean trowel with no build up makes the job easier and better. Hope this is any help to you. Allan Smith
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
why do you have to give the plaster two coats
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i have been an pro plasterer for five years and i must say congratulations on trying to complete your own plastering work.I have plasterers working for me that wont even try some stuff. Imust say though if Cam ever wants a job get in touch lol.
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Reply to Andy
If you’re new to plastering the chances of getting a good finish on a ceiling of that size are remote. you will simply not have the speed to get the plaster on before it goes off.
Either, get more practice in prior to your ceiling or seperate the ceiling in two with a stop bead and do the ceiling in two halves.
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
at the end of the day you are as good as you can be
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I bought a house built in 1905 a year ago and the whole place has needed renovating. The main job has been the plastering which after paying £600 for one room to be completely replastered (I’d already stripped the walls back to the brickwork and taken down the lathe and plaster ceiling) I decided to attempt plastering myself with the help of a friend (who’d done one whole short course so that’s good enough for me!!).
We have done one bedroom ourselves which was totally a case of learning the ropes as we go. Again, we went right back to the brickwork as the plaster came away with the wallpaper. We used a bonding coat to build the walls up (without realising how difficult it is to get flat) and then plastered. The finish is ok and the room as a whole is a million times better than it was. We also plasterboarded the ceiling over the old one as I could not face the mess of taking down lathe and plaster again!! we went with the mantra that if it moves, take it off the wall.
I have a question however. I’m really not sure what the stuff is between the plaster and the wall. Its like a lime mix, about 1 inch thick that just crumbles. If I were to run my hand over it it would be covered in dust and I guess I couldn’t have plastered straight onto that even with PVA-ing it?? I have to take on the hallway, landing and stairs next. They are covered in wood chip. The other rooms only had wallpaper on them so I assume this will be even harder to get off and will then take the plaster with it. Now this is going to be a big job and I’d really like some advice how best to approach it. Should I…
A) strip the walls of plaster, PVA the lime stuff that crumbles and skim (I think no to this one but thought I’d check!)
B) Take off the plaster but plasterboard straight onto the lime stuff and ensure my drywall screws are long enough to go through to the brick wall and hold. Then skim. Would it even be worth removing the woodchip if I’m doing this?
C) Strip right back to the walls taking everything off, plasterboard using screws and adhesive, and then skim.
I don’t want to bonding coat it again as I’d like the walls to be as flat as possible through the hall etc. Don’t mind so much in the one bedroom as the finish we managed wasn’t too bad. I also want to be as effcient as possible!!!!!
Thanks guys
Paul
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
That`s lime mortar/horsehair …Render. an old way.-Render and set.-Used up to 70s maybe a bit later. not lime mortar then .Still has to be done on damp renovation work. Option B ,I would do. Hth.
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I have been plastering over old render and plaster, PVAing all the layers. The first small area went OK. Then I tackled a big one, but hadn’t mixed enough so that there were bits I had still to smooth over, but with no mix left to do it with. I had to break off for a couple of weeks to do something else. When I returned, I mixed half a bucket and merrily set to work. After about ten minutes, the mix had gone off. Puzzled, I threw it away and mixed a new one. Again it went off in no time. I went on the Internet looking for tips and discovered that plaster deteriorates if the bag is left open, which is exactly what I did during the weeks I wasn’t working. Learn from my mistake – treat your bag of plaster like your cornflakes packet. KEEP IT CLOSED!
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Thanks Limey. so would you take off the woodchip paper or not even bother with that and just plasterboard straight over everything and through the lime/horsehair mix? Would you use an adhesive with screws or just screws? I guess the adhesive would just pull at the paper if I left it on? what type of screws would you recommend also?
Terry – I can see your point – I mixed a bag without thinking about how long it had been open. When it started to fizz and bubble I figured that it probably shouldn’t go on the wall ;O)
Thanks for the advice
Paul
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Hey Terry,
We have similar walls to you and we’ve done a combination of B and C. With some walls it’s not possible to add another layer of plasterboard over what was already there, so had to strip to brick then plasterboard.
Since we wanted to add insulation to external walls we used 2″ battens fixed on the walls either directly to the bare brick or through the old plaster with very long screws. We then added plasterboard to the battens after adding insulation.
Little tip:
We found it hard to buy usable plastic plugs that were long enough and resorted to using the green garden canes (buy quite cheap from any garden center) as the plugs. We’d drill a deep hole slightly bigger than the screw width, add a garden cane and snap it at the wall level. When we screwed into the hole+garden cane it formed a really strong grip (I was surprised it worked better than plastic plugs).
Actually using garden canes made battening far quicker because you could fix the batten with a couple of screws then drill through the wood batten (wood drill)then without moving the batten drill into the wall (masonry bit). We then pushed the cane through the batten into the wall and snapped it off. You can’t do this with most plastic plugs, you have to drill the holes, add the plugs, then put the batten over it which makes lining in hole and screw a chore.
If you find a cane plug not tight enough, give it a quick drill again and add another cane.
I got this idea after seeing a carpenter using match sticks to fill over screwed wood screw holes (in wood). By adding a matchstick it tightens the screws hole so it no longer slips. Realised the same concept could work with brick work.
Someones going to post now and tell me before plastic plugs wood plugs was used
David
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Hi guys, just came across this thread wile browsing and find it quite interesting.
Davids garden cane idea sounds like a good way to fix screws, but there are masonary screws available (tapcons) that do not require any plugs at all, you simply drill the requierd hole strait through the batten and into the wall then follow with the screw and it will cut its own thread into the brick or block, they realy do give an outstanding fix and have to be the fastest way i have ever found for fixing into masonary.
As for plastering walls, im no expert but i always find that even if some parts of the old plaster seem tight to the wall its good practise to take it all off and apply a new sand and cement mix to the whole wall, lets face it if it needs doing do it right the first time, you dont want to find that in six months or a years time the bit that seemed ok starts to come loose messing up all your hard work, getting the sand and cement coat flat is easy simply lay it on as best you can and when its firmed up a bit go over it with a strait edge scraping it all to the same level (a long spirit level is handy for this), you should then have a prity good flat surface to skim onto.
I notice a lot of people using browning that you can mix in a tub with a drill just like the skim which is great if your doing a small wall but if you have a decent size area to do I would recommend the higher of a mixer and use sand and cement, mixers are only about £20 for a week and that includes delivery to your door
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
hi to all, im a pro plasterer and have been for nearly 10 years now, everyone on these threads seem to be stuck on the idea of using browning and sand cement mixes for all plastering work, the backing work known as floating aka (browning), i use a much simpler method of dabbing plaster boards to old brick walls or even new, using gyproc dri wall adhesive and dabbing plaster boards to the walls much cleaner and easier and much more of a quicker job, i have found that much of the browning work is not as much called for any longer, the browning work is a skill of course but the dry lining side of thigs i find this method to be much easier for the home diy’er, working onto plasterboard is a much easier background for any novice plasterer and will be able to pick up the troweling motions quicker as skimming on platerboard is a very low suction background and have much more time to work with the plaster and achieve the ultimate smooth finish, but do remember that the plaster board is a low suction background and requires very little water when final troweling good luck to you all hope this has helped out, any questions im happy to help out as everyone else on this thread was too
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Help please. I have an area of wall about 2foot by five foot which when I took the wallpaper down the plaster came too. The wall is now down to sand. What do I need to do before i attempt to plaster?
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Hi All,
Great thread this. I have a couple of questions…..
i) Reading how important it is to get the right mix, what is the correct ratio of water / multifinish?
ii) If you are using bonding, is this supposed to be left to completely dry out before applying a skim coat or should the skim be applied whilst it is still damp?
Cheers for all the helpful advice so far….
Danny
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Hi,
Some really useful tips on this thread.
I was wondering if anyone has a sure fire way of getting smooth level surfaces when plastering with Thistle Multifinish. Ive tried going over the second coat with a trowl whilst slightly wetting the surface, but when i put a straight edge against the wall i still keep finding dips and raises.
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
what exactly is a stop bead
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Those dips and raises might be the wall itself? You dont get a wall flat using finish plaster, you use a floating coat first, however this requires a great deal more skill.
There are plasters known as ‘one-coat’ plasters, these are applied in two coats and then ruled flat using a darby or feather-edge, once all the hollows are filled out leaving a flat wall you then leave it for 20 minutes before using a sponge float, kept wet you rub the wall in circular motions bringing up the fines, this looks like soap suds on the surface, they are then trowelled back in until flat, leave for a further 20 minutes and trowel again, do this until perfectly flat and smooth…job done.
Anyone needing further advise can visit; ukspreads.co.uk/uksforum
Hopefully they won’t remove the link as it is really useful for those wishing to learn the dying art of plastering.
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Found your site in google, and it has a lot of usefull information. Thanx.
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hi i am having problems when flatning my second coat of multi finish 10-15mins after aplieing it.It tends to tear or peel of. so i have to wet it just to flatten it of why is this. can anyone advise me as i am at my wits end. is it also a good idea to put milk into the mix as a plastersizer
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
stop bead is a beading you can plaster up to. I.e if the wall or celling is to big for you to tackel in one go you can devide it.
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Im a plasterer from Australia and i can tell you your doing it a bit wrong. Patches are art in their own way, u should always use a peice of plaster cut to the hole size and use a plastering mesh tape on the edges. Use some cornice cement for this because it is very very strong. Just apply evenly and thin, then use a top coat compound to run over it to get a nice finish. Use some sandpaper on it, and paint her up. If you continue doing it the way you are it will only end up cracking with the movement of the earth and it will not have a long life length the way i told you will guarantee 15 years at the very least. All of my work i guarantee 20
. GOOD LUCK
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
when skimming a wall is the pva applied & allowed to dry or does the plaster go straight on.
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plaster should be apilled while pva is still tacky. this will stop the plaster from cracking as it drys
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Wow, this thread really took off! Thanks for the advice from everyone from my earlier post and glad to see lots of others asking questions now!
I’m getting round to doing my hall way and landing now (yeah, I last posted in July but ther’s been lots of other jobs to do!) and have taken into account everyones tips. I’m just about to go and hack off all the old render and brush down the walls… and then have one almighty clean up. As I understand it I need to PVA the walls once clered of dust (the bare brick) a few times and then I’m going to plasterboard straight onto the brick using the adhesive suggested by Mike and use some beading to protect the exposed corner. Then skim and hopefully… Bish bosh jobs a good ‘un :OP
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Good forum, Plastering is a daunting job, some builders wont even touch it, to plaster a whole room including a sand cement render onto the brickwork finished with a skim is labourious. I have been plastering and artexing, (and plastering over artex as tastes chage) for many years,
It is best to have a go on a sheet of plasterboard first, prop the board up against a wall, get a mixing attachement for your drill and a clean bucket, put the water in first followed by the powder, follow the bag instructions for quantity, you will get it right eventually, it is difficult to describe the consistancy in writing but the closest I guess could be to thick double cream which when you drip plaster on keeps the impression of the drips on the surface. Now the clock is ticking, skim goes off quickly, you can slow it down by adding lime but once you get the hang of it you shouldn’t need to. Lift about a trowells worth onto your hawk and scrape it off the hawk again with your trowell a few times to get it creamy, then scrape off a quantity with your trowell and holding the trowell at an angle slide it up the board so it leaves a nice layer of skim, do this again and again across the board until it is covered, to do a wall I would normally start at the top left corner and work across but on this board just get the skim on, it does not have to be perfect, now the board is covered, lightly go over it to get any obvious lines out and then leave it alone for @ 15 mins, (remembering that if the wall has taken you 15 minutes to get from one side to the other, the area you started on will be ready to go over again straight away!) wash your gear up making sure to get everything very clean, remnants of old skim in your bucket will turn new skim very quickly and reduce your working time. Now do it again in the same fashion, it will be quite easy, you will see that the finish is much smoother. leave it again for 10 mins or so and then you can start to polish, to be honest, polishing looks very good but it is not absolutley necessary and in fact can have adverse affects on paint adhesion, but it is worth having a go at it, spray some water over the skim and as it runs down the wall, trowell it back up on itself, you will see that the trowell edge collects some skim which then fills in any imperfections, go over the board and leave it for a bit again, you will need to use reasonably firm pressure at this stage, DO NOT HOLD THE TROWELL FLAT AGAINST THE BOARD, this will create suction and will pull the plaster away, you are basically only using the leading edge of the trowell. Go over it again if you want, the finish should already be good enough.
Obviously this is only a practice run on a small area, a whole wall is quite different, and there is a difference between skimming onto a board against skimming over a recently rendered wall, you need to plan ahead so you don’t run out of skim, aim to complete 1 wall at a time using exactly the same method.
Rendering a wall is heavier work but as long as the brick work is reasonably flat it is not too difficult, preperation is key to a good finish, if you have hacked old plaster off the walls, go over it with a stiff brush and get any loose dust etc off, then go over with a 50/50 PVA water solution and let it dry, then prior to applying render go over it again with a 20/80 PVA mix (80% water).Mix up the sharp sand / cement mix at 6-1, dont use washing up liquid as a plasticiser, use some proprietory mix or waterproofer instead. Supprisingly, unlike concreting a path or a floor, a render mix goes quite a long way. Some people use battens screwed to the wall at specific distances so they can run a straight-edge between them to get a good level, if you want to do this go ahead. if the wall is reasonably straight then I don’t. Remember prior to this stage that if you want to put any beading around window reveals or door casings etc this is the time to do it, get them dead straight and either nail them in place or stick them with a few dobs of skim. Get the render working on the hawk by moving it between the hawk and trowell and then scrape some off onto the trowell and smear it onto the wall. Dont go for a good finish at this stage, just get it on the wall, work quickly applying the render all over at an even thickness using an even pressure on the trowell. when the wall is covered, go over it again in the same way, this coat will immediatly be smoother, aim to reach the desired thickness. which really should not need to be more than 1cm max, then take your straight edge and using a zig zag motion, work over the render in all directions to get a level surface, DONT try to smooth it off, you need a key for the skim. Ensure that the finish is level, free from spikes and dips and leave it alone, 24 hours is enough until skimming as it will still be “green”.
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
ive been learning to plaster with the help of dvds and have produced quite good results but room for improvement, that will come with regular practice. i use my old terraced house for my practice but i have a large bedroom ceiling and huge stairwell to tackle. can any one tell me how to create a perfect join when skimming large areas? as the dvds dont seem to touch on this.
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
Great Forum.
Interested in the answer for John above as I often have large walls to plaster and I’m always worried about joining one days work to the next. But, I have two other questions which I hope someone can help me with:
1 – I seem able to remove lines in my plaster, and produce level flatened walls without bumps or ridges, but I still struggle with flatening out those 1/2 mm depressions and holes in the finishing skim that, you know, often look like Italy or the coastline of Thailand???… This is a REAL pain because, I can’t always see the faults until the next day and after and the wall/ceiling is dry…
2 – I’m English but live and work in France. Usedalwys Thistles in the UK, but can’t get it here. Does anyone know of a similiar European ‘Enduit’ that even if it goes on white that has the same properties?
Many thanks.
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
come on guys! anyone there? any advice on creating a perfect join when skimming a large area?
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I’VE BEEN PLASTERING FOR 14 YEARS.ANSWER FOR JOHN:- TRY NOT TO JOIN YOUR WORK AS YOU WILL ALWAYS SEE A LINE. I DONT CARE HOW GOOD A PLASTERER ANYONE IS, JOINING THE 2 PIECES OF WORK A LINE WILL ALWAYS BE SEEN. I HAVE JUST PLASTERED A 56 SQUARED METRE CEILING,BUT HAVING BEEN A CONFIDENT PLASTERER FOR THE LAST 12 YEARS I STILL COULDN’T DO IT ON MY OWN SO GOT MY DAD WHO IS ALSO A SPREAD TO HELP WE JUST DONE IT TO A GOOD FINISH TOOK 6 HOURS AND 7 BAGS OF MULTI. THE BIGGEST CEILING I WOULD DO ON MY OWN IS ABOUT 20 SQ METRES AND THATS A BACK BREAKER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
ok cheers asa. thats some ceiling!! as you progress wth the first coat, would your pop then follow behind you flattening off then you go back to the beginning with the 2nd coat etc? jus finishhed reskimming one wall with 2 windows in my bedroom with good results, working my way round the room, reeeally enjoying it … im a joiner by trade so its another string to my bow! KERCHING!!!
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Learning to Plaster by Plastering and Struggling with Drywall
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